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Spotted: Fossil-fuel-based ingredients are widely used in cosmetic products for several reasons. For example, they lock moisture into the skin, provide a protective barrier, and disperse fragrance ingredients. They are also used as fillers and texture enhancers. FineCell is working to eliminate fossil fuels from cosmetics with an entirely bio-based cellulose that can do everything fossil-fuel-derived ingredients can do, and more. The company is a spinout of the KTH Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm, Sweden, where initial research to develop the product was conducted.

FineCell’s CellOx dry cellulose powder is made by turning plant pulp into a biomaterial that can be used both as a powder and as a hydrogel. CellOx is produced by combining natural cellulose with oxalic acid, a natural chemical found in plants like rhubarb.

The new material is completely bio-based, lightweight, and requires 80–90 per cent less energy to manufacture compared to similar cellulose products. CellOx can be easily combined with other ingredients, making it an excellent binding agent for products such as sunscreens, skin creams, and even paints. It’s also transparent, making it suitable for a large number of applications.

The company has recently announced a €1 million seed investment led by Metsä Group. The funding will be used to improve R&D, engage with potential customers, and finalise plans for a demonstration production facility. The company aims to have the design of its demo plant ready for investment decision by the end of 2024 and larger-scale test production underway in 2025, with full commercial production commencing in 2027.

Beauty is a huge industry, and Springwise has spotted a number of innovations aimed at improving the sustainability of cosmetic products. These range from the use of forest by-products as ingredients to a process that uses fermentation to turn food waste into a sustainable palm oil substitute.

Written By: Lisa Magloff

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