British-made Ecovado offers low-impact alternative to avocado
CategoriesSustainable News

British-made Ecovado offers low-impact alternative to avocado

Central Saint Martins graduate Arina Shokouhi has invented an avocado alternative called Ecovado, which is meant to wean people off the resource-intensive imported fruit.

The Ecovado contains a pale green, creamy foodstuff made from a combination of ingredients local to its country and packaged in a fake avocado skin fashioned from wax.

Shokouhi, who is a recent graduate of London school Central Saint Martins’ masters in Material Futures, created the product to help people reduce the amount of avocado they eat while still indulging their cravings for its flesh.

Close-up photo of a sliced-open Ecovado
The Ecovado is an avocado alternative made from local ingredients

“The avocado has become a modern-day cultural icon synonymous with hipster cafes and trendy Instagram posts,” said Shokouhi.

“However, avocado production is energy-intensive and resource-intensive: each avocado requires 320 litres of water to grow and harvest internationally.”

“Avocados are one of the most unsustainable crops to export because of their delicate, easy-to-bruise nature, and the plantation-style monoculture farms required to meet the global demand for avocados are driving the deforestation of some of the most diverse landscapes in the world.”

Photo of Ecovado sliced on toast on a plate surrounded by green dip and broad beans
The British version is made primarily with broad beans

To come up with the Evocado recipe, Shokouhi worked with food scientist Jack Wallman from the University of Nottingham’s Food Innovation Centre. He helped her identify the chemical and molecular composition of avocados and showed her how to go about finding suitable replacements.

The Ecovado she made for her final-year project is designed for the British market and employs primarily broad beans, hazelnut, apple and rapeseed oil.

Shokouhi says approximating the flavour and texture of avocado with only local, natural, low-impact ingredients was a huge challenge.

“The flavour of avocado is quite subtle and, overall, is most often described as ‘creamy’,” Shokouhi told Dezeen. “On the other hand, broad beans can contain quite a lot of bitter compounds called tannins and can have a beany flavour caused by lipoxygenase.”

“To reduce the bitterness, we reduced the amount of broad beans in the recipe,” she continued. “The flavour of avocado has been described as ‘nutty’. So we used creamed hazelnuts which would bring a good amount of fat, adding to the creaminess.”

Photo of Ecovados lying on a sun-dappled table
At the centre is a whole nut in place of the stone

Sometimes seemingly ideal substitute ingredients – such as olive oil, which is similar to avocado fat – could not be used because they came from too far away.

“Instead, cold-pressed rapeseed oil was selected due to the wide availability of UK-grown products and the similarity of its fatty acid profile to avocado,” said Shokouhi.

Shokouhi’s finessed recipe is encased in a realistic faux avocado skin made from wax and coloured with food colouring. The packaging is biodegradable and compostable, and can also be upcycled into a candle should the consumer choose to get crafty.

Photo of a tray of Ecovados in a supermarket trolley
The goal with the product is to reduce avocado consumption in countries where the fruit isn’t grown

The Ecovado also contains what looks like an avocado stone. Shokouhi experimented with many options for this, including a wooden ball, which was ruled out for being a waste of material, and a recycled-paper “seed ball” that could be thrown into the garden to sprout wildflowers.

However, she decided the most “uncomplicated” option was best and so the Ecovado features a whole nut – either a walnut, chestnut or hazelnut – at its centre.

Other innovations in food design that have come from design students include Holly Grounds’ dissolvable flavoured ramen packaging that wraps around the noodles and Annie Larkins’ unusually shaped alternative to chicken eggs.

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A nature-based solution for water recycling 
CategoriesSustainable News

A nature-based solution for water recycling 

Spotted: Wastewater, such as that containing sewage and agricultural runoff, generally contains an overabundance of phosphorus. This can lead to increased growth of algae and large aquatic plants, which can produce toxins and result in decreased levels of dissolved oxygen in the water, a process called eutrophication. Traditional methods for reducing phosphorus in wastewater generally involve chemicals, which are energy inefficient and can themselves cause problems. Now, a nature-based process for removing phosphorus, developed by start-up I-Phyc (‘Industrial Phycology’) is gaining traction. 

I-Phyc’s solution is a circular process that uses algae to remove phosphorus, ammonia, and other harmful contaminants, including steroids, and insecticides. At the same time, the growing algae locks away carbon and produces biomass from which sustainable products can be created. Algae thrive in water containing an excess of nutrients. I-Phyc’s process deliberately applies algae to wastewater treatment in a controlled way, allowing the algae to do its work before the final, cleaned effluent is discharged to the watercourse.

The company claims that it is able to consistently remove between 50 and 99 per cent of pollutants without the use of chemicals. In addition, the biomass produced by the algae contains a number of compounds that can be used commercially. I-Phyc helps wastewater treatment operators to harvest the algae and transform it into useful products, including fertiliser, poultry feed, sustainable feed stock, biogas and specialist oils and lubricants. The entire process is carbon negative.

I-Phyc has recently raised £2.3 million (around €2.6 million) in an investment round led by Mercia water and Mellby Gård AB. In a press release, Kiran Mehta, Investment Manager at Mercia, said, “Our previous investments helped I-Phyc to develop and roll out its technology and it is now attracting huge interest within the industry. With water companies trying to meet ever increasing water quality standards and challenging carbon emission goals, new technologies will have a key role to play. This new funding will help position I-Phyc as a leader in sustainable water treatment solutions.”

Wastewater treatment can be an energy-intensive process, so it is no surprise that we here at Springwise have seen a number of innovations aimed at developing more sustainable treatment methods. Some recent projects includes an easy-to-use device that disinfects water using sunshine and a solar catalyst that can treat wastewater in a manner similar to photosynthesis. 

Written By: Lisa Magloff

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Alexandra Daisy Ginsberg creates “interspecies artwork” in London
CategoriesSustainable News

Alexandra Daisy Ginsberg creates “interspecies artwork” in London

Artist Alexandra Daisy Ginsberg has created a digital AI tool named Pollinator Pathmaker to design the best possible gardens for bees and other insects to enjoy.

The Pollinator Pathmaker project has opened its third public edition in the gardens around London’s Serpentine Galleries, following commissions by Cornwall’s Eden Project and Berlin’s Light Art Space.

At the same time, people are invited to participate in their private gardens, by using the Pollinator Pathmaker online tool to create a planting plan tailored to their plot.

Pollinator Pathmaker installation at Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park
Hyde Park’s Kensington Gardens are home to a new edition of Pollinator Pathmaker

The work is intended to raise awareness about the decline in pollinators, which as well as bees includes butterflies, moths, wasps, beetles and other species that are essential for plant reproduction and ecosystem survival.

At the same time, Ginsberg aims for the project to build empathy with other species.

“I wanted to make art for pollinators, not about them,” said Ginsberg. “Pollinator Pathmaker is an ambitious art-led campaign to make living artworks for other species to enjoy.”

Close-up on tall purple flowers in the Pollinator Pathmaker installation
The garden is designed by an AI and optimised to attract the most pollinator species

“Modern humans have reshaped the planet for our own benefit, while forgetting that other
species and their needs are essential to our own survival,” she told Dezeen.

“Decentring ourselves is a powerful way to think about other species: encouraging us to see the world as they do, to have empathy for them, and most importantly to inspire humans to care for them.”

Ginsberg sees Pollinator Pathmaker as encoding empathy into an algorithm, in this case by defining empathy as a design that would support as many pollinator species as possible.

She worked with horticulturalists at the Eden Project, which first commissioned the project, along with pollinator experts and Google Arts & Culture to develop the digital tool.

It asks the user to input information about the size and conditions of their plot, and then play with the “empathy” sliders to choose whether they want more or fewer plant species, a bold or intricate pattern, and a flight path or patches.

Some pollinators, such as bees, learn and memorise an efficient route for themselves, so they would be drawn to the flight path, while other insects explore more randomly.

Screenshot of the Pollinator Pathmaker online tool showing a 3D visualisation of a garden of painted flowers
Anyone can use the online tool to make their own garden planting plan

The algorithm generates a different garden design each time, which users can see as a 3D visualisation composed of Ginsberg’s digital plant paintings. They can also see how it will change from season to season and what it looks like in “pollinator vision”.

To realise the garden design, they download planting instructions, which come complete with a certificate of authenticity for their editioned artwork.

The Serpentine’s version of the artwork fills a 227-metre-long area in Hyde Park’s Kensington Gardens with more than 60 species of plants. It is part of the institution’s newly opened Back to Earth programme, themed around the environmental emergency.

Screenshot of the Pollinator Pathmaker platform showing the 3D garden visualised in
One of the features of the tool is that it lets you see your garden in “pollinator vision”

The garden is intended to be in place for two years, during which time the artist hopes to open further editions worldwide, using each commission as an opportunity to develop a new regional “plant palette” so the tool can be used in more locations.

“The aim is to make the world’s largest climate positive artwork,” said Ginsberg. “Each time a large Edition Garden, like the two we’ve planted in the UK, is commissioned, we create a new plant palette for the region and donate this back to www.pollinator.art to encourage local visitors to join in and plant their own artworks.”

“Gardens are not isolated entities; they are interconnected in the landscape. Your flourishing garden supports the flourishing of your neighbour’s, so we need as many pollinator-friendly gardens as possible to be planted.”

Ginsberg’s art focuses on technological and environmental themes. Her past work has included Machine Auguries, which artificially recreates the dawn chorus of birds, and The Wilding of Mars, which explores what would happen if the red planet were colonised by plants and not humans.

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Analysing marine sulphur emissions – Springwise
CategoriesSustainable News

Analysing marine sulphur emissions – Springwise

Spotted: In January 2020, the UN International Maritime Organisation introduced new regulations to limit vessels from using fuels with a sulphur content above 0.5 per cent (or 0.1 per cent in some areas). However, it is difficult for governments and regulatory authorities to enforce the new sulphur limit because current sulphur monitoring relies on expensive and time-consuming manual processing and emissions tests that can take up to one day per ship. In fact, fewer than 10 per cent of vessels are checked each year. Now, startup Marine Hound may have an answer. 

Marine Hound has developed a “sulphur emission sniffer system”. It consists of low-power gas analysers located in smart buoys and ground stations around harbours. These continuously patrol emissions from ships in the area. When high sulphur emissions are detected, the relevant authorities are alerted and a drone is activated to collect emissions samples from the suspect vessels.

The company then analyses the samples and provides actionable data to enforcers. This helps enforcement agencies develop more efficient and effective monitoring and reporting, making it easier for authorities to move the shipping industry towards full sulphur cap compliance. 

The Malta-based startup is still in development, but they have recently secured €100,000 in funding to help them progress to the next phase in the Blue Economy Acceleration Programme. Founder Nicholas Borg Calleja has announced that over the next six months, the company will be “accelerating key milestones, working with our strategic partners from Finland and Estonia to integrate novel gas analyser and drone technologies, and consolidate the hardware and software solution in Malta.”

The new IMO emissions standards are not the only reason many vessels are switching to low-sulphur fuel and systems. Many shipping companies are also motivated by a commitment to sustainability. Luckily, a number of innovations are making this easier. Some recently covered by Springwise include a low-carbon biofuel designed for ships and the use of smaller, electric ships. 

Written By: Lisa Magloff

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Evolution Music creates “ecologically sound” bioplastic 12-inch vinyl
CategoriesSustainable News

Evolution Music creates “ecologically sound” bioplastic 12-inch vinyl

Music and sustainability collective Evolution Music has designed a 12-inch vinyl made of bioplastic using existing record pressing machinery, which features tracks by artists Beatie Wolfe and Michael Stipe.

Hailed as the world’s first commercially available bioplastic 12-inch vinyl by Evolution Music, the product is made from specially designed bioplastic instead of traditional, carbon-intensive PVC.

Evolution Music 12-inch vinyl
The 12-inch vinyl is made from bioplastic created by Evolution Music

The bioplastic 12-inch vinyl looks and functions like a standard vinyl, comprised of a black disc illustrated with a central graphic design.

It was manufactured using existing record pressing machinery and production processes.

Record pressing machinery
It is manufactured using existing record pressing machinery

Its A-side features the track Future, If Future by American musician Stipe, while Oh My Heart by British-American artist Wolfe can be played on its B-side.

The bioplastic 12-inch vinyl’s creators said that they were prompted to design the material and the product themselves after struggling to find “sustainable solutions for physical media”.

“It is a robust, ecologically secure compostable material created specifically to act and sound the same as PVC-derived vinyl,” Evolution Music CEO Marc Carey told Dezeen.

Vinyl sticker
Tracks by Michael Stipe and Beatie Wolfe feature on the record

To create the bioplastic, a four-year development process involved identifying a base polymer that acts in the same way as traditional PVC, without producing harmful substances, according to Carey.

After this, the team sourced bio-organic fillers and co-created a solid additive used for plastics called a bio masterbatch.

Evolution Music’s aim was “to create a biopolymer that is authentic, truly sustainable and ecologically sound,” explained Carey.

“We’ve never developed traditional plastic vinyl – I guess you should ask the PVC manufacturers why they didn’t [create bioplastic vinyl],” he said.

Bioplastic vinyl
Evolution Music aimed to create a “sustainable” product

Five hundred copies of the bioplastic 12-inch vinyl were initially sold when it was released earlier this year, with the proceeds donated to the charity EarthPercent.

Founded by musician Brian Eno, EarthPercent invites artists to pledge a portion of their income to the charity, which is then donated to organisations that tackle climate change.

The release of the bioplastic 12-inch vinyl forms part of a Bandcamp project by EarthPercent that includes over 100 tracks by artists including Hot Chip, Peter Gabriel and Nile Rogers.

“It took three passionate, independent music lovers from the UK to develop this product out of necessity,” concluded Carey.

“The fact that ‘big’ players did not do this in the first place raises interesting questions about the petrol, chemical, oil and plastics industry… just saying!”

Other recent bioplastic designs include a clingfilm alternative made from waste potato peels and a polystyrene substitute created from plastic-eating mealworms.

The images are courtesy of Evolution Music. 

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AI-powered sperm analysis improves fertility treatments
CategoriesSustainable News

AI-powered sperm analysis improves fertility treatments

Spotted: In-vitro fertilisation (IVF) has been a crucial breakthrough – both for human couples who want children, and for farmers who use it to manage the make-up of their herds. Despite the many medical advances that have moved fertility treatments forward, rates of success are still low. Fertility tech company Pera Labs says that IVF fails 70 per cent of the time in humans and 60 per cent of the time in farm animals. The company’s solution is to make it easier to find and select the highest quality sperm for a fertilisation.

Using artificial intelligence (AI) to cut down on the length of time it takes to analyse sperm in the laboratory shortens the amount of time individuals, couples, and farmers have to wait for each round of treatment or service. The company’s proprietary algorithm SPERMAN works with images as well as video, a development that greatly increases the accuracy of sperm quality analyses. The technology also works with eggs. Because eggs are much larger than sperm, it takes only seconds for the AI to gather enough data to grade an egg’s health.

For farmers, the lab offers a sex-sorting-as-a-service option to help maintain herd health and optimum numbers of each gender. For people, the technology helps identify as early as possible before the embryo stage the possibility of any dangerous genetic mutations. And potentially, if fertility treatments speed up slightly, costs may drop, enabling more people to access treatments that are currently prohibitively expensive.

Innovations focusing on fertility are relatively rare, with Springwise spotting a Tinder-style app that helps people choose a sperm donor and a femtech platform that personalises care for conditions that often affect infertility.  

Written By: Keely Khoury

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Finnish “sand battery” offers solution for renewable energy storage
CategoriesSustainable News

Finnish “sand battery” offers solution for renewable energy storage

Finnish companies Polar Night Energy and Vatajankoski have built the world’s first operational “sand battery”, which provides a low-cost and low-emissions way to store renewable energy.

The battery, which stores heat within a tank of sand, is installed at energy company Vatajankoski’s power plant in the town of Kankaanpää, where it is plugged into the local district heating network, servicing around 10,000 people.

The company behind the technology, Polar Night Energy, says it helps to solve one of the key obstacles in the transition to full renewable energy: how to store it for use during times when the sun isn’t shining or wind isn’t blowing, and particularly for use in the wintertime when demand is high.

Steel tank making up the Polar Night Energy sand battery in Finland
The Kankaanpää “sand battery” holds 100 tonnes of hot sand

“Solar and wind power is basically already really competitive in terms of energy price per produced energy unit,” Polar Night Energy co-founder and chief technology officer Markku Ylönen told Dezeen.

“The only problem with them is that you can’t really choose when it’s produced.”

He said that while lithium batteries are well suited for vehicles, “if we’re talking about gigawatt hours or terawatt hours of excess electricity, it’s not technically feasible to try to cover that with lithium batteries, and also the costs will be immense”.

“Even even if we dug out all the lithium in the world, we couldn’t build batteries big enough to accommodate all the fluctuation in renewable energy production,” Ylönen added.

Diagram showing excess energy from a wind turbine, tidal turbine and solar panel being stored as heat and sent to homes as heat for consumption
The battery stores excess renewable energy as heat that can later be sent to homes and businesses

Polar Night Energy’s sand battery stores heat for use weeks or even months later. It works by converting the captured renewable electricity into hot air by using an industrial version of a standard resistive heating element, then directing the hot air into the sand.

The heat transfers from the air to the sand, which ends up at temperatures of around 500 to 600 degrees Celsius and retains that heat well. To unlock it for use, the process is reversed and the hot air funnelled into a heating system used for homes or industry.

According to Ylönen, the process is low-cost – sand is inexpensive so the main costs are related to equipment and construction of the steel storage tank.

It is also low-impact, with the only substantial greenhouse gas emissions being embodied emissions from construction and the transport of sand, which should come from a location close to the battery site.

And although there is a sand shortage related to the material’s use in concrete and glass, Ylönen says the battery does not require this kind of fine-grain, high-quality sand.

Instead, they can use sand rejected by the construction industry, or even alternative “sand-like materials”, of which Polar Night Energy already has several contenders.

Excess sand from the building of the sand battery in Kankaanpää
The battery can be made with any type of sand from any location

The Kankaanpää battery is four metres in diameter, seven metres high and contains 100 tonnes of sand, but Polar Night Energy envisions future batteries being 20 metres across and 10 metres high.

This should give the battery one gigawatt hour of storage capacity, which is equivalent to one million kilowatt hours (kWh). The average UK home uses 1,000 kWh of gas and 240 kWh of electricity per month.

Several sand batteries of a standardised size could be placed around larger cities to service larger populations.

The sand battery would most likely only be used to provide heat and not electricity due to the inefficiency of the conversion process, but according to Ylönen, the world’s heating needs are great enough to justify having separate storage systems.

“The heating sector is something like one quarter or one third of the emissions of the world,” said Ylönen. “Along with the transportation and food industries, it’s among the largest sectors in terms of global warming.”

The urgency of transitioning to renewable energy has increased with the Ukraine war, which has led to spiralling energy costs and has revealed Europe’s dependence on Russian oil and gas.

Dezeen is on WeChat!

Click here to read the Chinese version of this article on Dezeen’s official WeChat account, where we publish daily architecture and design news and projects in Simplified Chinese.

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A project cares for the pets of homeless people
CategoriesSustainable News

A project cares for the pets of homeless people

Spotted: As any pet owner knows, animals can quickly become members of the family. They provide us with companionship, love, and support. And for those who are homeless, pets are especially important, providing a range of health benefits in addition to physical protection. However, these animals are less likely to receive the care that they need to remain healthy.

The ElleVet Project is a US-wide mobile relief effort providing free care to pets in vulnerable communities. Multiple veterinarians travel around the country to treat pets of people who are homeless in order to improve the health and well-being of both the pets and their owners.

Out of a 38-foot RV, known as the ElleVan, the vets offer vaccinations as well as treatment. Vaccinations are crucial as they allow pets and owners to stay in animal-friendly homeless shelters where non-vaccinated animals are banned.

If the pet needs emergency care, the ElleVet Project contacts and pays local veterinary surgeons to perform the surgery and provide the necessary care. Within the first two months of launching, the project treated over 1,200 pets.

Among other pet-friendly innovations we have spotted in recent times include a digital diagnosis and treatment tool for pets that tackles vet shortages and dog leads made from old climbing rope.

Written By: Katrina Lane

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Ubiquitous Energy aims to make solar windows the global standard
CategoriesSustainable News

Ubiquitous Energy aims to make solar windows the global standard

US company Ubiquitous Energy has invented a thin coating that turns windows into transparent solar panels, providing other ways to harvest renewable energy in buildings beyond rooftop panels.

Ubiquitous Energy describes its technology as being the only transparent photovoltaic glass coating that is “visibly indistinguishable” from traditional windows.

Any surface could become a solar panel

The company was founded in 2011 by researchers from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) and Michigan State University (MSU), who engineered a transparent solar panel by allowing the visible spectrum of light to pass through and only absorbing ultraviolet and near-infrared light to convert to electricity.

Standard solar panels look black because they absorb the full spectrum of light, and because of their appearance, their deployment has been typically limited to roofs, walls and large rural solar farms.

With Ubiquitous Energy’s coating, which it calls UE Power, potentially any surface can be turned into a photovoltaic panel.

Gloved hands holding a transparent solar panel
Ubiquitous Energy’s transparent solar windows (above) are installed at Michigan State University (top)

“The mission is to turn all these everyday surfaces around us into essentially renewable energy generators,” Ubiquitous Energy VP of Strategy Veeral Hardev told Dezeen.

“Windows is where we’re focused first, but beyond that, think about vehicles, transportation in general, portable consumer electronics devices, sustainable farming like greenhouses – these are all things that see sunlight to some degree,” he continued.

“Why not improve them so that they can actually generate renewable energy themselves without changing their appearance?”

Hardev said the company’s modelling shows that with broad adoption of the technology to the point that in 30 years the coating is as standard as low-emissivity (or low-E) coatings on windows are now, it could offset 10 per cent of global carbon emissions.

All components are completely transparent

The solar window works in the same way as any other solar panel. It contains cells of a semiconductor material that create an electric charge in response to sunlight.

Wiring hidden in the window frames connects it to the building’s energy management system to direct power to where it’s needed in the building or to store it in a battery.

Close-up of person in a lab holding a vial and spatchula
The coating is made using light-absorbing dyes

The innovation with Ubiquitous Energy is that all of its materials are transparent to the human eye, including the semiconducting compounds, which take the form of light-absorbing dyes.

To achieve its thinness – the coating is about one micrometre thick, or about 80 to 100 times thinner than a human hair – it is made with nanomaterials, similar to those used in display technologies.

The semiconductor layers are deposited onto glass using vacuum physical vapor deposition (PVD) – a standard coating process using in the window industry – and Ubiquitous Energy plans to license its technology to existing glass manufacturers so that they can incorporate it into their product offerings.

Transparent panels only half as efficient

Ubiquitous Energy estimates the windows would provide about 30 per cent of a building’s electricity needs, depending on factors such as geographical location, elevation and tree cover, and imagine them being used in conjunction with rooftop solar panels to reduce the building’s reliance on the electrical grid.

Because some light is allowed to pass through, the transparent solar panel is only about half as powerful as a typical rooftop solar panel of the same size. But Hardev claims their potential scale of deployment compensates for this loss of efficiency.

“A few years ago, we reported the highest-ever performance for a transparent solar device, with near 10 per cent efficiency,” said Hardev. “Although there are options that are 20 per cent efficient today, we’re making this conscious trade-off of being transparent so we can put it in places where you can’t put traditional solar panels.”

Cities would theoretically be able to produce substantial amounts of solar power locally without changing in appearance, reducing the need for land for large solar power plants.

First factory to open in 2024

Applied in other ways, the coating could be used to make mobile phones that don’t need to be recharged, more energy-efficient cars and self-powering greenhouses, Hardev says.

“We’re first starting with windows because we think that is the area that is going to have the biggest overall impact,” said Hardev, citing the statistic that nearly 40 per cent of total global energy-related CO2 emissions come from buildings.

Ubiquitous Energy has completed a number of demonstration projects, including at Michigan State University and at the Boulder Commons apartment community in Colorado.

Ubiquity Energy solar windows installed at Michigan State University
The company is working to expand the coating’s applications beyond windows

The company plans to open its first factories producing floor-to-ceiling solar windows in 2024. It also hopes to grow its partnerships, which have so far included window companies Asahi, Pilkington and Andersen.

Past aesthetic solutions to the issue of intrusive solar panels have come from designer Marjan van Aubel, who created colourful skylights reminiscent of stained glass, and Tesla, which released camouflaged Solar Roof tiles.

Architects have also been creatively integrating the technology into buildings, with designs such as BIG and Heatherwick Studio’s “dragonscale solar skin” on the roof of Google’s Bay View campus in Silicon Valley and Shigeru Ban’s sail-like moving wall of photovoltaics at La Seine Musical near Paris.

All images are courtesy of Ubiquitous Energy.


Solar Revolution logo
Illustration is by Berke Yazicioglu

Solar Revolution

This article is part of Dezeen’s Solar Revolution series, which explores the varied and exciting possible uses of solar energy and how humans can fully harness the incredible power of the sun.

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Fashion and the UN SDGs
CategoriesSustainable News

Fashion and the UN SDGs

The clothes we wear have an enormous impact on the planet. The entire fashion supply chain is estimated to contribute 8 to 10 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions, and fashion is the second most water-intensive industry on earth, consuming roughly 79 billion cubic metres of water per year. Fashion also faces social problems such as modern slavery, due to its long supply chains over which brands do not have full control.

These challenges have caused some to question whether fashion can ever be sustainable. But every individual person can make a difference through their choices, and consumers are increasingly acting as a driver of change. According to one survey, 57 per cent of consumers have made significant changes to their lifestyles to lessen their environmental impact. And innovators are finding ingenious solutions that meet their changing demands.

Springwise has spotted fashion innovations that not only improve the sustainability of fashion in a narrow sense, but contribute to the achievement of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) more broadly. Fashion, like many industries, needs to change (and fast) if these goals are to be met. But innovators are inspiring hope that the necessary changes are not only possible but beneficial.

SDG 12: Responsible consumption and production

One of the most important SDGs for the fashion industry is SDG 12, which calls for the decoupling of economic growth from increasing resource consumption. Fashion uses 98 million tonnes of non-renewable resources each year, and only 12 per cent of the material used in clothing is currently recycled. There is therefore a clear need to move towards more circular practices in the industry, which will require the input of both consumers and manufacturers. Innovators are facilitating this process.

On the manufacturer’s side, Italian luxury fabric company Manteco is transforming pre-consumer scraps, post-consumer garments and, industrial waste into soft, durable and sustainably coloured yarns and fabrics. Meanwhile, B2B matchmaking platform Uptrade pairs those wishing to buy fabric with textile manufacturers and fashion labels that have excess fabric in their inventories. On the consumer side, fashion brand Samsøe Samsøe is stitching ‘Resell Tags’ into its garments. These contain a QR code that, when scanned, automatically generates a resale advert for Facebook and Instagram marketplaces.

SDG 14: Life below water

You may not immediately draw a link between your favourite coat and the sea’s riches, but several innovators are exploring how fashion can be used as a tool to promote marine biodiversity. Meanwhile, others are working to minimise the impact of fashion waste on life beneath the waves.

Florida-based startup Inversa is making an alternative leather out of lionfish – an invasive species that threatens the health of Florida’s coral reefs. Elsewhere, Canada’s Lezé the Label is making comfortable officewear from another threat to marine eco-systems: discarded fishing nets. Ocean plastic is yet another problem with one study calculating that there are 24 trillion microplastic particles in the world’s seas. It is therefore important that fashion brands avoid plastic where they can, and German startup LOVR has developed a completely plastic-free alternative to animal leather. 

SDG 10: Reduced inequality

Efforts to increase the positive impact of fashion are not limited to the materials and processes used to make clothing and accessories. Fashion can also be an effective tool for tackling social issues. 

SDG 10 promotes social, economic, and political inclusion regardless of factors such as race and ethnicity, and several fashion innovators are working towards this goal. UK-based Yard + Parish is promoting black-owned luxury fashion brands through curated offerings of fashion, beauty, wellness, and homeware products. And, in the US, e-commerce platform Black Owned Everything is both a marketplace and media culture hub that empowers a diverse community of creators.

SDG 5: Gender equality

The power of fashion to promote social change also extends to gender equality. SDG 5 stresses the need to eliminate all forms of violence against women and girls. To this end, Danish startup Shift has developed connected jewellery that doubles as a personal safety device. 

Economic empowerment of women is another focus of SDG 5. Social enterprise Alsama Studio employs female refugee artisans to embroider old clothes, turning them into exciting new looks. The income the women earn through their studio work is often the only funds available to their families. And in Malaysia, accessory brand Earth Heir works closely with refugees and local artisans to help develop their businesses. Women make up the majority of the artisans worldwide, as well as 60-70 per cent of people living in poverty.

SDG 17: Partnerships for the goals

Partnerships between the public and private sector, large and small businesses, and academic institutions, NGOs, and corporations are crucial for delivering on all of the SDGs, as is highlighted in SDG 17. And the fashion industry provides some excellent examples of partnership in action.

Ice cream brand Magnum is is at the start of a new long-term partnership focused on circularity with the Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour. The partnership’s goal is to use cocoa waste products as a reliable, circular source of material for the fashion industry. Another project brings together 12 partners including research institutes, agricultural associations, SMEs, and large enterprises to turn food waste into bioplastic for cosmetics. And, in New Zealand, a group of like-minded organisation is exploring ways to pool resources in order to provide local cotton recycling technologies.

Words: Matthew Hempstead

Looking for inspiration on sustainability? Why not visit our SDG hub page for more articles on green innovation that matters.

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