Solutions not pledges: Five of the best startups at COP28
CategoriesSustainable News

Solutions not pledges: Five of the best startups at COP28

A COP summit held in a petrostate was always going to be controversial. Some announcements got a gold star, such as the launch of a loss and damage fund (although the devil will be in the details) or the pledge to triple global renewable energy capability by 2030. But while the final agreement promised a transition away from fossil fuels, many observers criticised it for falling short of a full phase-out.  

Outside of the main negotiation rooms and talking shops, entrepreneurs and founders come to COP summits to make contacts and do business. It felt like they were in the right place this year – the appetite for solutions over more pledges was palpable in the conversations we had and during the sessions we attended.  

More than a hundred clean tech startups had travelled to Dubai to be present in the Startup Village or to speak on panels on the various stages around Expo City. It was great to see some familiar faces, such as Sabrine Chennaoui, CEO and co-founder of Monsapo, a company that makes cleaning products from used cooking oil. Monsapo addresses a critical issue: 20 per cent of ocean pollution comes from used cooking oils, harming marine life responsible for 95 per cent of Earth’s oxygen.  

It seemed fitting during the hottest year on record RedSea were at COP28, a sustainable agritech startup we featured earlier this year, which has developed a complete system aimed at helping farmers grow food in adverse conditions. This includes greenhouse technologies designed to keep plants cool in hot climates. The platform incorporates artificial intelligence (AI), solar power, and desalination technologies in order to save on energy and water use.  

Likewise FortyGuard, an analytics platform we first spotted in December 2022 that collects data from a mixture of local and global sources. The company uses this to provide analytics about temperatures down to the level of a single square metre. The insights can then be used to guide designers, engineers, and contractors as they attempt to make cities cooler. 

The fourth annual Hydrogen Transition Summit was held during COP28 – green hydrogen has been on our radar all year and developments in this area will only advance as innovation drives production and transportation costs down. Geopura is developing a technology that promises to eradicate the need for diesel powered generators on construction sites.  Following ten years of research and development, GeoPura has developed its Hydrogen Power Unit (HPU), which combines hydrogen fuel cell technology with battery storage and real-time electrical conversion. The fuel cell splits the hydrogen into protons and electrons, which creates an electrical current that charges the batteries. The batteries, in turn, provide power to the site for applications such as electric vehicle charging, heating, and hot water (read our full write up from November here).  

Levidian is a UK firm that is ready to capitalise on the Global Methane Pledge, launched at COP28, to reduce methane emissions by 30 per cent from 2020 levels by 2030. It trying to decarbonise hard to abate sectors – and counts waste water companies, oil and gas, and heavy industry, amongst its potential customers. It has created a device called ‘Loop’, which cracks methane into hydrogen, which can be used as a clean energy source and carbon, which is locked into graphene and then has the potential to be used in a variety of ways. Levidian claims that using Loop could cut CO2 emissions by 40 per cent instantly.

Words: Angela Everitt

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Stella McCartney presents Sustainable Market at COP28
CategoriesSustainable News

Stella McCartney presents Sustainable Market at COP28

A grape-based leather alternative and sequins made from tree cellulose are among 15 material innovations on show as part of fashion house Stella McCartney’s exhibition at the COP28 climate conference.

In partnership with Stella McCartney‘s parent company LVMH, the Sustainable Market showcases “the possibilities of current cutting-edge or soon-to-be available technologies” that could transform the fashion industry.

Stella McCartney's Sustainable Market showcases sustainable fashion productsStella McCartney's Sustainable Market showcases sustainable fashion products
Stella McCartney is exhibiting the Sustainable Market at COP28

The 15 chosen innovators range from start-ups to established brands, providing plant-based alternatives to plastic, animal leather and fur as well as regenerative alternatives to traditional fibres.

“The fashion industry accounts for eight per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions,” McCartney said. “We need to get creative and innovative with alternatives, moving beyond the limited materials that the industry has been working with traditionally.”

“If we can work collaboratively with these goals, we can actually begin doing business in a way that regenerates our planet instead of only taking from it.”

Bioplastic sequin dressBioplastic sequin dress
Among the featured products are iridescent BioSequins by Radiant Matter

Among the featured companies is Radiant Matter, which produces plastic-free iridescent BioSequins, and Mango Materials, which transforms captured methane emissions into plastic as seen in Allbirds’ Moonshot trainers.

US start-up Natural Fiber Welding is presenting its plant-based leather alternative Mirum, which has already been used across Stella McCartney’s Falabella and Frayme bags as well as a series of fragrance-infused jackets by MCQ.

Stella McCartney's Sustainable Market showcases sustainable fashion productsStella McCartney's Sustainable Market showcases sustainable fashion products
Plant-based Mirum leather is used to produce the Falabella and Frayme bags

The Sustainable Market also showcases examples of finished products including crochet dresses and bags by Stella McCartney that are made using seaweed-based Kelsun yarn and the first-ever garment crafted from biologically recycled polyester by US company Protein Evolution.

Another stall highlights Stella McCartney’s collaboration with Veuve Clicquot to develop a grape-based leather using waste from the champagne house’s harvest.

Bag made from kelp yarnBag made from kelp yarn
Seaweed-based Kelsun yarn forms crochet Stelle McCartney bags

The Sustainable Market also highlights three student projects from the Maison/0 incubator at design school Central Saint Martins, which is supported by LVMH.

Automating Violacein by Charlotte Werth explores how an automated microbial dye process can be used to produce printed patterns for luxury textiles.

Other projects examine how bacteria, algae and food waste could offer bio-based alternatives to synthetic dyes, and how lab-grown keratin fibres could be used for luxury clothing.

The products are displayed in market stalls featuring 3D-printed walls infused with a compound by Spanish materials company Pure Tech, which it claims can remove CO2 and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) from the air by converting them into harmless mineral particles.

Stella McCartney's Sustainable Market showcases sustainable fashion productsStella McCartney's Sustainable Market showcases sustainable fashion products
This bag is made using grape leather made in collaboration with Veuve Clicquot

Other brands invited to participate in the market include US company Brimstone, which claims to have created “the world’s first carbon-negative portland cement”, and Chargeurs Luxury Fibers, which produces wool using regenerative farming methods.

McCartney was asked to represent the fashion industry at COP28 to advocate for policy and regulatory change to incentivise sustainable business and the decarbonisation of the industry.

Mannequins wearing Stella McCartney garments at COP28Mannequins wearing Stella McCartney garments at COP28
Several Stella McCartney garments demonstrate the materials possible applications

Her delegation also seeks to promote human and animal welfare while building a coalition of global government and business leaders to scale investment in material innovations.

Recently named among Time magazine’s 100 most influential climate leaders, McCartney bills her eponymous brand as the world’s first luxury fashion house to never use animal leather, feathers, fur or skins.

Products by Nativa showcased at Stella McCartney's Sustainable MarketProducts by Nativa showcased at Stella McCartney's Sustainable Market
Chargeurs Luxury Fibers produces wool using regenerative farming methods.

The Sustainable Market concept was first launched as part of her Summer 2024 runway show during Paris Fashion Week and will continue to evolve over the coming year following COP28.

The exhibition is taking place at the climate conference until 12 December in Dubai, United Arab Emirates.

Stella McCartney's Sustainable Market showcases sustainable fashion productsStella McCartney's Sustainable Market showcases sustainable fashion products
The stalls were 3D-printed in collaboration with Pure Tech

Last year’s Conference of the Parties (COP), which was held in Sharm El-Sheikh, Egypt, saw architect Norman Foster launch a set of sustainability principles for architects while a team of researchers developed an app that predicts damage to global cities from rising sea levels.

The event was described as “deeply depressing” by architect and engineer Smith Mordak in their opinion piece for Dezeen, with other architects and sustainability experts expressing frustration at the slow pace of global action to reduce carbon emissions.

The photography is courtesy of Stella McCartney.

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