FranklinTill lists nine principles for a shift to regenerative materials
CategoriesSustainable News

FranklinTill lists nine principles for a shift to regenerative materials

Design research agency FranklinTill has compiled a list of principles to help designers, makers and brands avoid greenwashing when sourcing textiles.

By making it easier to identify textiles that have a greater positive impact on people and planet, FranklinTill hopes to enable a shift towards regenerative materials.

“We can only move towards a regenerative approach to textiles by understanding the full lifecycle of our materials,” said co-founder FranklinTill Caroline Till.

“As designers, makers, brands and manufacturers, we need to think of materials not as static and linear, but as dynamic, evolving systems, to holistically consider the full impact to the wider ecosystem they are a part of.”

Regenerative exhibition by FranklinTillRegenerative exhibition by FranklinTill
FranklinTill has curated an exhibition setting out its nine principles

The defining characteristic of regenerative materials, according to Till, is that they restore and nourish the ecosystems they are part of.

“Sustainability, by its very definition, is all about maintaining the status quo, while regeneration seeks to actively heal and put back better,” she said.

FranklinTill first unveiled its nine principles of regenerative design in an exhibition at the Heimtextil trade fair in Frankfurt in January, with a second show planned for the Techtextil fair in April.

In an online exclusive, we are also unveiling them here. Read on to see all nine, with captions written by FranklinTill and examples of material innovation in practice:


Agave textile production in MexicoAgave textile production in Mexico
Designer Fernando Laposse works with local communities in Mexico to process sisal, a fibrous material made from agave leaves, which he turns into hairy furniture

Enriching Communities

“To go beyond sustainability and become regenerative, we must focus on both the social and the environmental impact of production.”

“This means spotlighting how materials are made and by whom, looking to improve livelihoods with better pay, working conditions and future prospects.”


Bulrush plants used for BioPuff materialBulrush plants used for BioPuff material
British manufacturer Ponda produces BioPuff, an insulating fibre filler material, using bulrush plants grown on natural wetlands

Replenishing the Land

“Focused on high yields with an over-reliance on pesticides and water, modern industrial farming damages land.”

“Regenerative farming works holistically to reverse this, rebuilding organic soil matter and sequestering carbon in soil, wetlands and trees, retaining water and reducing the use of artificial pesticides and fertilisers.”


Yak khullu wool is made by nomad families on the Tibetan PlateauYak khullu wool is made by nomad families on the Tibetan Plateau
Lifestyle brand Norlha creates apparel and homewares from yak khullu wool, which is handcrafted by nomad families on the Tibetan Plateau

Preserving Heritage

“Many indigenous practices are regenerative by nature, working with the land and local communities.”

“By acknowledging and celebrating the value of cultural heritage and craftsmanship and learning from its ecological wisdom, we can protect valuable skills and knowledge from being lost to technology and globalisation.”


Textiles made from sunflowersTextiles made from sunflowers
British textile brand Climafibre produces fabrics from sunflowers, a species that can be grown with minimal intervention, fertilisers or watering

Restoring Biodiversity

“Regenerative practices must take a multispecies approach to encouraging biodiversity.”

“Acknowledging the threat of extinction, addressing the causes of loss, and reviving habitats for diverse plants and wildlife aids ecological restoration.”


Charlotte Werth has developed a printing process that uses bacteria to create pigmentsCharlotte Werth has developed a printing process that uses bacteria to create pigments
Designer Charlotte Werth has developed a fabric printing process that uses bacteria to create pigments

Biological Fabrication

“The convergence of science and design offers huge potential for new materials, from living microbial systems to synthesising nature’s regenerative powers.”

“Growing and extracting next-generation materials using innovative, highly productive processes can create plentiful resources from minimal input.”


Keel Labs produces a textile industry yarn from kelpKeel Labs produces a textile industry yarn from kelp
US-based Keel Labs produces Kelsun, a seaweed-based yarn, using an abundant polymer found in kelp

Naturally Abundant

“Highly productive, resilient raw materials that grow with little human intervention offer naturally high yields, strengthen soils and capture carbon.”

“These abundant, versatile crops could help move the focus away from traditional natural material fibres that require high levels of water, pesticides or fertilisers.”


Desso carpet tiles by Tarkett use post-consumer wasteDesso carpet tiles by Tarkett use post-consumer waste
Circularity is built into all of the design and manufacturing processes for Tarkett’s Desso carpet tiles

Reclaiming Material

“Extracting raw materials, making products, then discarding them and their byproducts is contributing to the global waste problem.”

“By putting useful waste streams back into production, we can better utilise existing resources and avoid waste altogether.”


Haelixa creates a distinct DNA code for each supplier, brand, collection or materialHaelixa creates a distinct DNA code for each supplier, brand, collection or material
Haelixa is bringing transparency to material supply chains by applying distinct DNA codes to raw materials, using a customised spraying system

Radical Transparency

“By using science and technology to create tools and processes that capture and record data along supply chains, we can understand the social and environmental impact of the materials we consume.”

“Encrypting materials helps brands track their footprints and life cycles, and communicate this information to customers in a meaningful, trustworthy and accessible way.”


Sanne Visser works with human hairSanne Visser works with human hair
Dutch designer Sanne Visser uses traditional rope-making techniques to turn human hair into handspun yarns

Cultivating Localism

“By supporting the local sourcing, production and consumption of materials, we can avoid globalised transportation and reduce carbon footprints.”

“Focusing on availability, seasonality and resourcefulness means embracing non-standardisation, often improving local environments as well as extracting from them.”

Reference

Sustainable Practice: The Miller Hull Partnership’s “Regenerative Porch”
CategoriesArchitecture

Sustainable Practice: The Miller Hull Partnership’s “Regenerative Porch”

Architects: Want to have your project featured? Showcase your work through Architizer and sign up for our inspirational newsletters.

Front porch living is a staple activity in many parts of the world; this culture of chatting with passersby, catching a fresh breeze and watching over the neighborhood was long viewed as a cultural mainstay of the southern United States. In addition to contributing to more socially-oriented communities, porches were historically important design features to help inhabitants cope with warmer weather (and a signature element of the New Urbanism movement). As the advent of air conditioning revolutionized the way architects and the broader population alike responded to heat, the porch became less integral to home design; however, today, several firms are making a strong case for its revival.

Architects have a responsibility to protect the public’s health, safety and welfare. Between climate change and increasingly extreme weather conditions, this charge also encompasses more sustainable and resilient design. For the Kendeda Building in Atlanta, the team at The Miller Hull Partnership (who took home the jury accolade for Best Sustainable Firm in the 10th Annual A+Awards) set out to create a model architecture that could foster environmental education and research. The resulting building doubles as a forum for community outreach, grounding approaches to sustainability and resiliency within the campus and beyond — all hinging on a clever evolution of the “porch” concept.

Located in the heart of Atlanta, The Kendeda Building was designed to make a statement. Created for the Georgia Institute of Technology, the building’s design also became an expression of its value system. These ideas are shown on display both inside and out, from the massing to material choices like mass timber. Working with Lord Aeck Sargent, a Katerra Company (LAS), the team at Miller Hull wanted to demonstrate that rigorous design and sustainability go hand-in-hand.

The concept of The Kendeda Building is inspired by the vernacular southern porch. Taking this element and expanding it from the residential to the civic scale, the team imagined a “regenerative porch” that could create a cool microclimate on the surrounding site. The resulting structure invites visitors inside to rest, learn and to look up as they learn about the space around them. Inside, the building continues the concept of learning by example through the design itself. As the team explained, gravity and lateral elements are left exposed creating a visual register of the structural forces at work.

The Kendeda Building hosts a variety of learning spaces to welcome all students and disciplines from campus. Traditional classrooms as well as laboratory space and meeting rooms fill the building. Each space has generous daylighting, operable windows and is free of Red List chemicals. Indoor environmental quality was the primary driver in the design of these spaces to support learning. The Kendeda Building is Georgia Tech’s first timber building since its earliest load bearing masonry and timber structures from the 1880s. Climate smart mass timber was selected for its significantly smaller embodied carbon footprint, compared to concrete and steel systems.

The design of the Kendeda Building demonstrates that ‘Living Buildings’ are possible in even the most demanding climates. The Living Building Challenge is one of the world’s most rigorous performance sustainability certification standards for buildings. It was assumed Living Buildings could never be built in the hot and humid climate of the southern United States, especially Georgia, where swampy summers typically necessitate the use of high amounts of energy to keep buildings cool.

“People thought that a building like Kendeda could work in other places – California. Arizona, maybe. But certainly not Georgia,” says Shan Arora, Director of the Kendeda Building for Innovative Sustainable Design.

Yet, the project achieved full Living Building Certification in 2021 after proving its net positive energy and water performance during its year-long occupancy period. At the heart of this was the “Regenerative Porch” — a structural system and PV canopy that generates more than 100% of the building’s energy demand and captures enough rainwater to meet 100% of the water used in the building. At the same time, the design blurs interior and exterior conditions while providing weather-protected outdoor classroom space. As the first Living Building of its kind in the Southeast US, the project set a new standard for design.

The Kendeda Fund provided ongoing funding to support programs in the building that engage local Atlanta communities beyond the university. The atrium, lecture hall, roof garden, and multipurpose room were all designed to be made available for community events. As the team outlined, Georgia Tech’s mission is to maximize the impact of the building by exposing as many students as possible to the project. After learning in a building expressing such a strong position on resiliency and sustainability, the hope is that they will take those values with them into the future.

Architects: Want to have your project featured? Showcase your work through Architizer and sign up for our inspirational newsletters.

Reference

Market incentives for regenerative farming in Brazil
CategoriesSustainable News

Market incentives for regenerative farming in Brazil

Spotted: Regenerative agriculture is a farming method that improves soil, biodiversity, and crop quality, and is an important tool for sequestering carbon and protecting land. However, in Brazil, sustainable farming and forestry face practical barriers such as a lack of technical guidance, tools, and financing, which makes it very difficult to adopt regenerative practices.

Belterra, which was founded by a former Brazilian government official, is working to help smallholders in Brazil incorporate regenerative processes. It begins by analysing the most profitable combination of crops for a specific area, taking into account terrain, species interaction, and commercial interests.

Short and long-cycle crops are combined to form a food production system that benefits the land while also providing income from the first year of planting. Belterra’s team will also prepare the soil, supply materials and tools, and help carry out the planting. The company further connects farmers with commercial partners to create new markets and customers for their crops.

Belterra was selected as a 2023 Earthshot Prize finalist as a solution to ‘Protect and Restore Nature’.

Regenerative agriculture is becoming more common as farmers seek to improve yields without damaging the land. Other techniques Springwise has spotted recently include using bacteria to remove soil contaminants and solar-powered trackers that help ranchers manage their herds more sustainably.

Written By: Lisa Magloff

Reference

Making jewellery sustainable with regenerative mining
CategoriesSustainable News

Making jewellery sustainable with regenerative mining

Spotted: The negative environmental impacts of mining are well-established. As well as generating substantial volumes of greenhouse gas emissions, the mining process is also responsible for biodiversity loss, water contamination, and air pollution. Mineral extraction is still necessary, however, with these materials playing an essential role in energy transition technologies, as well as in electronics and fine jewellery. 

Startup Regeneration, which was founded by US NGO Resolve, is on a mission to make mining a sustainable practice. Instead of sourcing new mineral deposits, the company has a growing network of old mining sites that makes use of waste rock and mine tailings to access essential minerals. Mining techniques in the past were highly inefficient, as well as highly damaging to the environment, meaning that lots of valuable materials have been left behind in legacy mines. Using new methods and technologies, Regeneration is able to re-mine and take full advantage of old mining tailings. 

In addition to putting mining waste to good use, Regeneration also restores surrounding ecosystems that have been damaged by past mining practices, clearing polluted water systems and rebuilding habitats. Once fully re-mined, the company closes out a legacy mine properly to ensure that an area will not continue to be polluted. The startup then monitors biodiversity and regeneration progress on its closed sites to make sure the environment is healing as expected. 

Brands can partner with the organisation to access sustainably re-mined minerals and metals for their own products, and Regeneration uses its sales profits to go back into habitat restoration and mining closures.  

The company has already joined forces with the likes of Apple, and in May this year, popular Canada-based jewellery brand Mejuri also announced its own partnership as part of its first Sustainability Report. Through this relationship, Mejuri will be able to produce its jewellery lines using efficiently and sustainably mined metals, while helping to support essential ecological rehabilitation.

In the archive, Springwise has spotted other innovators looking to make jewellery better for the planet, including one that is 3D printing zero-waste items and another that sources diamonds from the ocean.

Written By: Matilda Cox

Reference

Reconsidering farming with regenerative agriculture in the UK
CategoriesSustainable News

Reconsidering farming with regenerative agriculture in the UK

Spotted: Agriculture finds itself at a crucial intersection. It is one of the most vulnerable sectors to the impacts of climate change and yet it is one of the world’s biggest emitters of greenhouse gases (GHGs). Figures vary depending on the scope of the study, but in 2019, for example, the United Nations’ Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change estimated that the global food system was responsible for up to 37 per cent of GHGs. The world has a growing population to feed, and yet intensive farming degrades the quality of topsoil, which is where nutrients, water and carbon are stored.

There is a solution already being implemented. Well-integrated and diverse agroecological systems can promote greater carbon sequestration because the methods used actually increase soil health. They also bolster resilience in terms of livelihoods and natural ecosystems thanks to a more interconnected approach between plants, animals, humans, and the environment. This regenerative style of farming does away with the over-use of heavy machinery, eliminates the introduction of chemicals entirely, and considers more diverse ways of both generating revenue and contributing to the health of the surrounding landscape.

For example, George Young aka Farming George, the owner of a zero-tillage, zero-insecticide, arable and livestock farm in Fobbing in South East England, plants a wide range of crops that are harvested at different times. He has also introduced ‘leys’ – temporary grasslands – made up of diverse perennial species. Cattle graze these leys, converting plant carbon to dung, which in turn has a positive impact on soil fertility. Under 30 miles from London and barely 2 miles from the London Gateway commercial port, Fobbing Farm is home to traditional crops as well as approximately 7,000 trees, including fruit and nut trees, birch for sap, willow for tree mulch, and other woodland for felling.

Regenerative farming practices are key to ensuring future food production is sustainable. In the archive, Springwise has also spotted one company providing financial support to regenerative farmers, and another restoring the health of soils with pre and probiotics.

Written By: Angela Everitt

Video credit: RE:TV

Reference

Data supports smallholder farmers and regenerative agriculture
CategoriesSustainable News

Data supports smallholder farmers and regenerative agriculture

Spotted: Smallholder farms, those covering two acres or less, produce around a third of the world’s food. Yet, there are almost no data services aimed at small farmers. As a consequence, many smallholders are cut off from access to wider farming services, support, and policy. To support smallholders, especially those using regenerative practices, the Smallholder Farmers Alliance, Data Economics Company, and Terra Genesis International have formed Smallholder Data Services to help smallholders better utilise their data.

Smallholder Data Services (SDS) uses a platform built on DECO’s Lydion Software Engine. This is used to develop blockchain-based middleware that allows data to be converted into digital assets which can then be shared in secure, private data vaults and data economic networks. SDS operates on a decentralised Data Economic Network (DENET), wherein each smallholder farmer is in control of their own data vault. Corporate partners can then join a regional or crop-specific DENET to examine traceability, regenerative standards, broader sustainability, and community impact.

SDS focuses on those smallholders who are engaged in regenerative farming—a system of farming methods that seek to enhance the entire ecosystem—or those who are looking to move towards regenerative practices. The platform is designed to manage farm-level data that relates to regenerative farming by enabling companies, consumers, and smallholders to verify sustainability standards. By packaging farm data as Lydion assets, the SDS platform both economically empowers these smallholder farmers while providing verification tools for crop buyers.

According to SDS co-founder Tim Tensen, “This is an exciting moment for Regenerative Agriculture as more companies and brands from around the world are taking steps to act from a whole systems perspective and make bold investments in the future of agroecosystems. Web3 technologies like the platform in development by Smallholder Data Services, represent a unique opportunity to support the livelihoods of smallholder farmers and do so in a way that intrinsically develops trust and integrity throughout supply systems, from farmer to consumer.”

This project is one of the latest to leverage blockchain to monetise data. Springwise has spotted other innovations including a platform that builds transparency in coffee supply chains and brings transparency to the diamond industry.

Written By Lisa Magloff

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